love ur vids. very helpful with lots info. keep up the good work. god bless
That is not a valve or lifter, that is one injector is no working after a long time without use. Move the injector where you hear the noise in the valve to another piston and you will be find that noise will move to that piston. I recommend service the three diesel injector. Is the injector are find, please check the diesel pump.
Have you found out what you should do to prevent this from hapening in the future?
Cylinder number 1 is at the front of the engine with the aux drive belts and coolant thermostat, number 3 is at the back or engine main output/ drive end..
Re the bent push rod and stuck valve
run the engine once a month, tricky from Canada..
next time it sits for a year
bar the engine over before attempting to start to feel for tight spots,
so lever it over through the starter hole against the ring gear with a large screw driver, or put a large socket on the front of the engine and slowly and gently turn it over a couple of revolutions, ensuring first it is in the engine stop so it doesn’t start on you and break your arm and push the socket arm through the hull..
winding it over like you did until the fuel came through was gold for pre lubricating the engine, not so good for the fuel pump running dry though as they are a v tight clearance and use the fuel for lubrication this as the pump may have to produce several thousand psi to open the injector.
It may not be so bad / $$$ as an pulling the head off.
I would back off that rocker by undoing the valve clearance lock nut and undoing the adjuster , if possible rotate the rocker to allow the push rod to be removed. Then id strike the top of the valve with a block of hard wood [ or brass or a screw driver handle for a little give] between the valve and hammer to attempt to free up the stuck valve. I would strike it firmly but not give it the bash
If it doesn’t free up when cold I would run the engine with that push rod removed so that cylinder is not working to heat up the engine say for 30 minutes then try again to free up. If it frees up then re straightened push rod [or new] , if it doesn’t free up then pull the head.
to reassemble you will need feeler gauges [ $5-$10 ] look up your engine specs for valve clearances
inlet is connected to the air in and exhaust [ sometimes the larger clearance is in line with the exhaust.
Checking the head face for distortion, hardness and crack testing then replacing valve guides and doing a valve grind, resurfacing the head is a good idea if you have the money.
Your head guy if any good will know these engines and what they normally require.
as you have compressed air, and a spare old glow plug modified to allow air to pass through you can blow 100psi into that cylinder through the glow plug hole while cylinder at the top [ top dead centre]
You can buy a in situ valve spring compressor [ say $30 ] it has a screw handle & remove the valve spring in place then remove the valve stem seal to allow kerosene or similar to run down the valve stem and soak against the stuck valve stem and valve guide.
You could heat the cylinder head with a gas torch right next to the guide which may help free up the stuck guide and valve stem. might save you $5k.
Youtube how to set valve clearances,
its a piece of cake, say 1/2 an hour if it’s your first time, a good thing to know how to do as part of your yearly maintenance.
sing out if you get stuck [ or unstuck]
Good luck :).
Hi Donald, I may face a similar challenge to Ben in the future. What could someone do if they were expecting to leave their motor locked up for 6 months to a year? I’m in Canada and mine gets locked up from Oct to April.
This is me guessing your engine is also diesel.
I’d ask my engine manufacturer for what winterising they suggest I’d try some old timers in a few boat yards and engine shops in your hood what they’ve done and what worked.
Select an engine that has history of no problems sitting in your playground idle for 6 months or so.
softly softly Bar or pry the engine over by hand first,
if you take out the glow plugs then it will be much easier to feel tight spots, keep the area clean so no trash falls in the glow plug hole, I cover with a rag to make it harder to drop things in the hole.
While you have your glow plugs out, screw the terminal nut back on and clip one jumper lead to the body of the glow plug and one touch for 1/2 second to the terminal nut and make sure it sparks a little, this is an easy go / no go glow plug test, the other end of jumper cables on a 12v battery. expect the heating tip to get hot, don’t go longer than 1/2 second
If you check your valve clearances once a season you will know what to expect as you turn over the engine by hand to check the clearances. If it does stop or you feel a tight spot stop you can take off the rocker cover and take a look. . .
once you have established its turning over ok without any tight spots, you could wind it over on the starter for a couple of 10 – 15 second bursts while the glow plugs out and watch the oil pressure come up to normal cranking pressure and pre lube your engine system prior to running loads.
I’d fit my glow plugs with excellent anti seize and have the right tube socket on a nail in the shed with compressed air to blow around each glow plug before removing it.
If I was leaving the battery on board ‘d run a small solar panel & mppt controller matched to your battery chemistry [ 1 amp is plenty ] on the starting battery
Employ someone from, a local boat engine shop to run the engine until its warm or at least 1/2 dozen 5 second winds on the starter every couple of months if you don’t want them starting it.
Pull the starter off once a year & well oil the front / drive end bush [ solid metal bearing ] as this does a lot of work. Keeping this bush moist with oil will reduce battery consumption, increase cranking speed & significantly increase starter life,In the olden days they had an oiling hole and felt wick to allow this..
Move somewhere warmer where you can go boating more often 🙂
Re Nahoa , sorry I didn’t explain, the fuel pump running without fuel can easily be mitigated / fixed to allow and minimise engine cranking by undoing the bleed [ or banjo fitting ] located on the engine mounted fuel injector pump [ it has metal pipes going to each injector] until fuel flows without bubbles then close it.
I’d carry spare copper washers for this banjo fitting.[ and all other fuel fittings]
I have recovered copper washers by hanging on a thin screw driver and heating cherry red with a lighter and dropping into water.
If it has to suck the fuel , I would fit an outboard primer bulb in series with the fuel line at the tank end so I can pump fuel through after changing the fuel filter and bleeding [ getting any air out ] of the fuel system. Id locate the primer bulb where I can operate it and observe for air bubbles.
If I can I [ or an observer ] watch the exhaust outlet during first cranking to start the engine and calling when they see smoke and also calling if they see none. There must be smoke and if there is none , even with full throttle I stop craning as it wont start.if there is no smoke and I’m wasting battery & starter life.
The compressed air is used to hold the valve up and in place while you use the
$30 valve spring compressor remove the valve collets,[keepers] cap & spring. run your finger nail and use a stone if needed to remove any flare that may catch the stem seal in the collet groove when you remove it, then the stem seal. Put a cable tie around the collet end of the stem seal now you can remove the compressed air and allow the guide and valve stem to soak in kero or diesel to free up, any blows must be directly in line with the valve and not any sideways component. .